Evil
Sock Genius Lessons
Weapons
- Desirable yarn.
- Long, circular needle in appropriate size for the yarn.
Cable should be at least 32 or 40 inches long. Knit
Picks and Addi
Turbos have superior cables: soft and flexible.
- Stitch markers; coil-less safety pin type is recommended.
The Evil Genius Sock is made with the "Magic Loop" method. When
knitting, the back half of your sock hangs in the middle of your needle
cable. There will be two big loops of cable on either side, and you
work across the front of your sock with the ends of the circular
needle. You can find illustrated instructions on the web by typing "magic
loop" into your favorite search engine, or see if your local
yarn store carries the
official Magic Loop booklet by Fiber
Trends.
Evil
Geniuses hate wasting time. Just start knitting.
The toe of your sock is your gauge swatch. Grab a circular needle in
the size indicated on the yarn band (or one size smaller), then use
Turkish Cast-On.
Knitting the Toe
Turkish Cast-On
- Hold your circular needle so that both ends are together,
pointed to the right.
- Pull the bottom needle to the right, so your top needle is
held together with the bottom cord.
- Start your yarn in back of the needles, leaving a 12" tail
hanging.
- Wrap the yarn over toward you, down across the front and up
the back of the needles.
- Wrap until you have the same number of loops as the yarn
label says there are in an inch.
Rounded Toe
- Knit across the stitches on the "top" needle. Be sure to
keep your stitches snug on the "bottom" needle.
- Hold working yarn and tail together, and work 1 round.
(This doubles the number of loops on each side.)
- Drop the tail, and knit one round, working one stitch in
each loop.
Toe Increases
- Knit 2, YO, knit until 2 stitches remain on that side, YO,
knit 2. Repeat for other side.
- Knit round, making sure to twist the yarnovers
by knitting into their backs. (Note: You can "mirror" the increases by
twisting them in different directions).
- Repeat these two rounds until your toe is the right
circumference. I find that 8.5 inches around is a good target, or about
10% less than the circumference of the intended wearer's foot.
By the time you reach the desired circumference, you are far enough
that you can check your gauge and whether you like the resulting
fabric. Not much time is invested, so it's easy to start over, but if
it's good, then you didn't waste that time doing a gauge swatch.
Be careful not to increase too many times. If the sock toe fits over
all five toes, then it's too big. If it fits over all except the
"pinkie" toe, then it's probably the right size.
Evil
Geniuses can knit both socks at once, but they don't always want to.
Before going on to knit the foot, decide whether you want to knit one
sock at a time, or both at once. It's not that tricky to do both at
once. The tubes sit side by side on your loop. You knit across the
front stitches of one tube, drop the yarn, then knit across the front
stitches of the other.
Yarmando finds that he works faster knitting one sock at a time, but
when he wants to avoid tedious row counting to make the second sock
match the first, he'll do both at once. He makes one toe, sets it
aside, makes the second toe, and then puts both socks on the loop. When
he reaches the heel, he sets one sock aside; it's too much trouble
doing both heels at once.
Knitting the Foot
Now you just keep knitting around until you've reached the desired
length before your gusset increases. If you wish, you can work ribbing
or some other pattern across the instep. Meanwhile, it's time to begin
plotting your domination of the heel.
Using Rounds-Per-Inch
Count how many rows (or rounds) work out to an inch. Multiply that by
the length of the foot this sock is meant to fit. Got it?
Now find your sock's stitch circumference on the chart. Subtract the
number of designated gusset/heel rounds from your total number of
rounds. You now know how many rounds to knit before starting the
gussets.
Sock
circum-
ference |
Gusset/
heel
rounds |
| 28 |
17 |
| 32 |
19 |
| 36 |
22 |
| 40 |
24 |
| 44 |
27 |
| 48 |
29 |
| 52 |
32 |
| 56 |
34 |
| 60 |
37 |
| 64 |
39 |
| 68 |
42 |
| 72 |
44 |
| 76 |
47 |
| 80 |
49 |
|
Rounds per inch =
|
|
Length of foot =
|
|
Multiply together for
total sock length
|
|
Gusset/heel rounds =
|
|
Subtract to find length
of sock before gussets
|
|
|
Gusset Increases
If you haven't yet decided, decide now which side of your sock is the
top (instep) and which is the bottom (sole).
- On the sole side, knit 1, YO, knit until 1 stitch remains
on that side, YO, knit 1.
Knit instep side plain (or in pattern that you've established).
- Knit round, making sure to twist the yarnovers
by knitting into their backs.
(Note: You can "mirror" the increases by twisting them in different
directions).
- Knit round.
- Work these three rounds the designated number of times
until you reach the total number of stitches after gusset increases on
the charts below.
| Original
circumference |
28 |
32 |
36 |
40 |
44 |
48 |
52 |
| Gusset increase repeats |
5 |
5 |
6 |
6 |
7 |
7 |
8 |
| Stitches after gussets |
38 |
42 |
48 |
52 |
58 |
62 |
68 |
|
| Original circumference |
56 |
60 |
64 |
68 |
72 |
76 |
80 |
| Gusset increase repeats |
8 |
9 |
9 |
10 |
10 |
11 |
11 |
| Stitches after gussets |
72 |
78 |
82 |
88 |
92 |
98 |
102 |
Evil
Geniuses are not constrained by rules.
The great
Cat Bordhi
discovered that gusset increases in this section can be placed anywhere
on the sock and it will still fit. All you have to do is increase at
the rate of 2 stitches every three rounds. The instructions here
produce a conventional, normal-looking sock, but as your genius
develops, follow Bordhi's lead and explore the possibilities before you.
Turning the Heel
(See also Detailed Instructions
for this section)
Identify the center of your sole. This will also be the center of your
heel stitches. Place markers to identify the heel (see chart below --
if your
heel base is 14 stitches, then you will place markers 7 stitches to
either side of the center of your sole).
- Knit to 2 stitches before the end of heel stitches. M1, K1,
wrap & turn.
- P3, place turning marker, purl to 2 stitches before end of
heel. M1, P1, wrap & turn.
- K3, place turning marker, knit to the marker you place on
the last row. M1, K1, wrap & turn.
- P3, replace turning marker, purl to the turning marker. M1,
P1, wrap & turn.
Repeat the last two rows the designated number of times, until the
stitches between your heel markers equals the designated number of heel
flap stitches on the chart.
| Original
circumference |
28 |
32 |
36 |
40 |
44 |
48 |
52 |
Heel base stitches
|
10 |
10
|
12 |
12
|
14 |
14 |
16 |
Short row turns
|
2 |
4 |
4 |
6 |
6 |
8 |
8 |
Heel flap stitches
|
12 |
14 |
16 |
18 |
20 |
22 |
24 |
|
| Original circumference |
56 |
60 |
64 |
68 |
72 |
76 |
80 |
Heel base stitches
|
16 |
18 |
18 |
20 |
20 |
22 |
22 |
Short row turns
|
10 |
10 |
12 |
12 |
14 |
14 |
16 |
Heel flap stitches
|
26 |
28 |
30 |
32 |
34 |
36 |
38 |
Finishing the Heel Base and Knitting the Heel Flap
Your last turn should bring the knit side facing. Knit a complete
round, working the wraps together with the stitches that they wrapped.
You can discard the turning markers, but keep the heel markers.
Continue knitting around, up to but not including the last stitch heel
stitch. Get the marker out of your way and join the last heel stitch
with the first gusset stitch with SSK (or Slip 1, K1, PSSO). Turn.
- Slip first stitch, purl up to last heel stitch, and purl
that stitch together with gusset stitch. Turn.
- Slip 1, knit 1, repeat across heel flap. SSK the last heel
stitch with the next gusset stitch. Turn.
Repeat these rows, knitting the heel flap upwards while consuming your
gusset stitches. Finish when your SSK leaves only one stitch remaining
before the instep stitches (two stitches remain on the other side of
the heel flap).
- Knit the last stitch, then knit across instep.
- Knit the first stitch after the instep, K2tog, knit across
heel flap stitches.
Cuff
Work the leg of your sock in whatever pattern strikes your fancy. A
simple ribbing is always a good choice. The length is completely up to
you.
Stretchy Bind-Off
Nothing ruins your work on a pair of socks like binding off too
tightly. There are a few techniques you can use to make sure socks
aren't too tight at the top: bind off with a larger needle, add
yarn-over stitches to your binding, Elizabeth Zimmerman's sewn
bind-off, etc.
This one is easy, fast, and elastic. Work two stitches in pattern, then
slide them both back over to the left needle and knit them together
through the back loops. Work the next stitch, slide the two active
stitches back to the left hand needle and knit them together through
the back loop. Continue until finished.
Evil
Geniuses gloat.
Break yarn, weave in the ends, and laugh your Evil Genius laugh as you
ponder the masterpiece of your perfect sock creation.
Evil
Geniuses credit their muses.